Craven Cottage
v Wolverhampton, Division One

Tuesday, April 24th 2001, 7.45pm
By Lee Roberts

I'd had my eye on the Fulham v Wolves match for a while, but a hospital appointment for an operation early the morning after meant that I cancelled my plans to visit Craven Cottage.  However, the operation was cancelled late on the Tuesday afternoon and so being all keyed up for the hospital my boss saw that I wouldn't be useful at work for the remainder of the afternoon and so I went home.  It didn't take long for me to phone my wife at work and let her know what was happening, and to inform her that I'd be catching the train into London for the match!

I phoned the ticket office at Fulham who confirmed that a few tickets were available but they had to be purchased in person and before 6 pm.  I raced into Hitchin and caught the first train to Kings Cross, then hopped onto the tube to arrive at Putney Bridge with about 20 minutes to spare before the ticket office closed.  Luckily there was a large volume of fans making their way to the ground and so I was able to follow them until I saw the floodlights in the distance and then I sprinted ahead to secure my admission.  I asked rather forlornly whether there were some seats that had been unclaimed but I had to settle for a place on the Hammersmith Terrace for £13.  With a bit of time left to spare I set off to explore the immediate vicinity and the thing that struck me was the high number of joggers and roller-bladers who were out on what was a pleasant evening.  I lost count of the number of athletic young females who endured the glares of hundreds of male fans whilst running down the crowded Stevenage Road, but then I wondered why they would have been doing it on matchday anyway if it made them feel uncomfortable.  Perhaps they enjoyed it!

In my haste to find the ticket office before 6 pm, I failed to notice the superb exterior to the Stevenage Road Stand.  I had heard about the fine Victorian style facade to the wall and roof, but it really is exquisite and I've yet to see anything like it at a football ground.  Another thing that struck me as I looked around was the close proximity to the River Thames.  I recalled the television pictures from the University Boat Races which showed Craven Cottage in clear view from the water but I never imagined it to be so close to the water!  I imagine that re-development to the Riverside Stand would be extremely problematical but if anyone could throw money at such an expensive project, I'm sure the illustrious chairman of Fulham FC could.

 

At about 7 pm I entered through the turnstiles and searched for decent spot on the Hammersmith End.  As I moved around I noted that an excellent view could be gained from almost anywhere on the terrace.  I settled on an area close to the turnstiles (and the snack bar!) and killed time before kick-off by checking out the facilities on offer.  The toilets were surprisingly basic; in the absence of an approved programme of stadium re-development I expected that the existing facilities would have been modernised to cater for the large - and mainly affluent - crowds.  There were the usual offerings at the refreshment kiosks but there was also a large bar area behind the Riverside Stand that served alcohol.  I did contemplate having a beer but the bracing wind blowing in from the river made it far too uncomfortable.  One noteworthy point was the relatively cheap price for the food and drink - I expected far higher prices at Craven Cottage. 

I made my way back to the area where I had decided to stand and noticed a slight change - the wind from the Thames was now blowing right across the face of the Hammersmith End and seemed to get stronger and colder by the minute.  The game kicked-off under the Craven Cottage floodlights and I hoped to see some attractive football from Tigana's newly-crowned champions, who would now be able to play as free spirits.  However, the next 90 minutes were as painful to watch as it was stood in that wind form the Thames.  I lost count of the backwards and sideways passes played by the Fulham defenders and the home crowd grew restless.  Matters weren't helped by an ineffective Wolves side who offered nothing throughout.  As it was, a couple of penalties saw the home side run out 2-0 winners.

At the end of the game I was relieved to be heading back to the relative warmth of the train.  The match was poor and the atmosphere failed to rise as a result.  Indeed, I observed many dissatisfied spectators inside Craven Cottage, although spectators is the way I'd describe these people rather than supporters.  They appeared to have recently joined the Fulham bandwagon and I wouldn't have thought they understood the kind of reception Simon Morgan received when he appeared as a late substitute following a lengthy injury lay-off.  The ground itself was okay but lacked any real soul.  I would have preferred to have visited with a personal interest in the match, and next season I shall return with Everton.  I'm sure I will enjoy the experience more as the stadium has a unique charm and is set in idyllic surroundings that make a refreshing change to some of the alternative destinations in the capital.

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Copyright © Lee Roberts 2001. All rights reserved.